Yarn-over Pullover
The Yarn-over Pullover is made with a worsted weight yarn. Like the Oli Cardigan, it is a good project for beginner knitters that want to practice seamless knitting. It is done in the round, with a seamless raglan shape; perfect for working on tension and doing yarnovers.
You are welcome to sell items made with the pattern and share it, but please give me credit by linking to this blog or my Ravelry profile:
https://www.ravelry.com/designers/cata-atria
Materials:
1.5 skein sport or worsted yarn such as 24/7 Cotton
US size 4 (3.5mm) round needles, optional
US size 4 (3.5mm) double pointed needles
US size 3 (3.0mm) double pointed needles
Stitch markers (for separating sweater parts and marking raglan lines)
Tapestry needle
Finished size (measurements taken flat): chest 10in, shoulder to waist 10in, wristband to wristband 21in
Gauge: 21 stitches and 30 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch
Skill level: easy. Requires knitting in the round, yarn over
Abbreviations used:
k = knit
Yoke: With, US 4 needles, CO 72 stitches with any stretchy cast-on. You can choose either type of needle (although I used circular for this part of the sweater)
Row 1: k2tog, yo, *k1, p1*, repeat from * to end
R2-4: k1, p1
R5: In this row you will divide the torso from the sleeves: k12, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k10, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k24, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k10, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k12 80 stitches
* You will continue increasing one stitch at each side of the raglan stitch (for a total of 8 stitches) in every odd row until row 27. By row 28 you should have 104 stitches
R6-9: p 6/8, k 7/9
(this picture should have been taken after row 5, it shows up to row 9)
R10-11: k
R12: p
R13: *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 4 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 8 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 4 times.
R14: p
R15: k. At the end of this row, you will not turn to knit back and forth, as you have been doing. Instead, you will continue knitting in the round. You can place a marker between the first and the last stitch to keep track of them.
*If your circular needles are too long, divide the stitches onto double pointed needles. This is what I did at this point.*
R16: Knitting in the round: *p to raglan, k1*, repeat four times, p to end.
*Remember to continue increasing 1 stitch at each side of the raglan line, on every odd row. The last row that you will increase will be 27, 104 stitches.
R17-21: k
R22: *p to raglan, k1*, repeat four times, p to end.
R23-24: k
R25: *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 5 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 11 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 5 times.
R26-27: k
R28: *p to raglan, k1*, repeat four times, p to end. (104 stitches)
R29: In this row, you will separate the torso from the sleeves by putting the sleeve stitches on standby. You will get rid of all markers except for the one signaling the beginning of round. K to marker, k raglan stitch, put 34 stitches on hold, yo2, k raglan stitch, k to marker, k raglan stitch, put 34 stitches on hold, yo2, k raglan stitch, k to marker. (104 stitches)
R30-33: k
*Tip for row 30: knitting the yarnovers at the armpit: change the direction from left-leaning (picture A) to right-leaning (B). I just do this manually (untwist then twist). Then, knit from the front side of the stitch (C). This will ensure that the stitch stays twisted so it can be knit.
A)
B)
C) 
R34: p
R35-36: k
R37: *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 26 times.
R38-39: k
R40: p
R41-45: k
R46- 69: repeat rows 34-45 twice.
R70: p
R71-74: k1, p1
R 75: Bind-off.
Sleeves (Use double pointed needles and knit in the round)
R 29: Transfer and distribute the sleeve stitches on double pointed needles. Beginning in the middle of the armpit, pick up 3 stitches, k to end of sleeve, pick up 3 stitches and continue knitting in the round (40 stitches)
R30-33: k
R34: p
R35-39: k
R40: p
R41- 58: repeat rows 35-40 three times.
R59: *K2tog, k6*, repeat from * 5 times. (35 stitches)
R60-63: k
R64: p
R65: *K2tog, k3*, repeat from * 7 times. (28 stitches)
R66-69: k
R70: p
R71-74: k1, p1.
R75: bind-off.
Finish: weave in ends and add a button to the back of the neck:
The Yarn-over Pullover is made with a worsted weight yarn. Like the Oli Cardigan, it is a good project for beginner knitters that want to practice seamless knitting. It is done in the round, with a seamless raglan shape; perfect for working on tension and doing yarnovers.
You are welcome to sell items made with the pattern and share it, but please give me credit by linking to this blog or my Ravelry profile:
https://www.ravelry.com/designers/cata-atria
https://www.ravelry.com/designers/cata-atria
Materials:
1.5 skein sport or worsted yarn such as 24/7 Cotton
US size 4 (3.5mm) round needles, optional
US size 4 (3.5mm) double pointed needles
US size 3 (3.0mm) double pointed needles
Stitch markers (for separating sweater parts and marking raglan lines)
Tapestry needle
Finished size (measurements taken flat): chest 10in, shoulder to waist 10in, wristband to wristband 21in
Finished size (measurements taken flat): chest 10in, shoulder to waist 10in, wristband to wristband 21in
Gauge: 21 stitches and 30 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch
Skill level: easy. Requires knitting in the round, yarn over
Abbreviations used:
k = knit
p = purl
pm= place marker
sm= slip marker from one needle to the other
k2tog = knit 2 together (used for decreasing 1 stitch, done from the front of the piece)
yo= yarn over
Yoke: With, US 4 needles, CO 72 stitches with any stretchy cast-on. You can choose either type of needle (although I used circular for this part of the sweater)
Row 1: k2tog, yo, *k1, p1*, repeat from * to end
R2-4: k1, p1
R5: In this row you will divide the torso from the sleeves: k12, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k10, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k24, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k10, yo, pm, k1, pm, yo, k12 80 stitches
* You will continue increasing one stitch at each side of the raglan stitch (for a total of 8 stitches) in every odd row until row 27. By row 28 you should have 104 stitches
R6-9: p 6/8, k 7/9
(this picture should have been taken after row 5, it shows up to row 9)
R10-11: k
R12: p
R13: *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 4 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 8 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 4 times.
R14: p
R15: k. At the end of this row, you will not turn to knit back and forth, as you have been doing. Instead, you will continue knitting in the round. You can place a marker between the first and the last stitch to keep track of them.
*If your circular needles are too long, divide the stitches onto double pointed needles. This is what I did at this point.*
*If your circular needles are too long, divide the stitches onto double pointed needles. This is what I did at this point.*
R16: Knitting in the round: *p to raglan, k1*, repeat four times, p to end.
*Remember to continue increasing 1 stitch at each side of the raglan line, on every odd row. The last row that you will increase will be 27, 104 stitches.
*Remember to continue increasing 1 stitch at each side of the raglan line, on every odd row. The last row that you will increase will be 27, 104 stitches.
R17-21: k
R22: *p to raglan, k1*, repeat four times, p to end.
R23-24: k
R25: *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 5 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 11 times, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k to marker, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 5 times.
R26-27: k
R28: *p to raglan, k1*, repeat four times, p to end. (104 stitches)
R28: *p to raglan, k1*, repeat four times, p to end. (104 stitches)
R29: In this row, you will separate the torso from the sleeves by putting the sleeve stitches on standby. You will get rid of all markers except for the one signaling the beginning of round. K to marker, k raglan stitch, put 34 stitches on hold, yo2, k raglan stitch, k to marker, k raglan stitch, put 34 stitches on hold, yo2, k raglan stitch, k to marker. (104 stitches)
R30-33: k
*Tip for row 30: knitting the yarnovers at the armpit: change the direction from left-leaning (picture A) to right-leaning (B). I just do this manually (untwist then twist). Then, knit from the front side of the stitch (C). This will ensure that the stitch stays twisted so it can be knit.
R34: p
R35-36: k
R37: *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 26 times.
R38-39: k
R40: p
R41-45: k
R46- 69: repeat rows 34-45 twice.
R70: p
R71-74: k1, p1
R 75: Bind-off.
*Tip for row 30: knitting the yarnovers at the armpit: change the direction from left-leaning (picture A) to right-leaning (B). I just do this manually (untwist then twist). Then, knit from the front side of the stitch (C). This will ensure that the stitch stays twisted so it can be knit.
A) B)
B)
C)
R34: p
R35-36: k
R37: *k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat 26 times.
R38-39: k
R40: p
R41-45: k
R46- 69: repeat rows 34-45 twice.
R70: p
R71-74: k1, p1
R 75: Bind-off.
Sleeves (Use double pointed needles and knit in the round)
R 29: Transfer and distribute the sleeve stitches on double pointed needles. Beginning in the middle of the armpit, pick up 3 stitches, k to end of sleeve, pick up 3 stitches and continue knitting in the round (40 stitches)
R30-33: k
R34: p
R35-39: k
R40: p
R41- 58: repeat rows 35-40 three times.
R59: *K2tog, k6*, repeat from * 5 times. (35 stitches)
R60-63: k
R64: p
R65: *K2tog, k3*, repeat from * 7 times. (28 stitches)
R66-69: k
R70: p
R71-74: k1, p1.
R75: bind-off.
Finish: weave in ends and add a button to the back of the neck:
R30-33: k
R34: p
R35-39: k
R40: p
R41- 58: repeat rows 35-40 three times.
R59: *K2tog, k6*, repeat from * 5 times. (35 stitches)
R60-63: k
R64: p
R65: *K2tog, k3*, repeat from * 7 times. (28 stitches)
R66-69: k
R70: p
R71-74: k1, p1.
R75: bind-off.
Finish: weave in ends and add a button to the back of the neck:
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