Oli Cardigan
The Oli Cardigan is made with a worsted weight yarn. Like the Oli Beanie, it is a good project for advance beginner/intermediate knitters that want to branch beyond the basics and practice a simple lace knitting stitch. It has a seamless raglan shape and sleeves are knitted in the round.
You are welcome to sell items made with the pattern and share it, but please give me credit by linking to this blog or my Ravelry profile: https://www.ravelry.com/designers/cata-atria
Materials:
1.5 skein sport or worsted yarn yarn such as 24/7 Cotton
US size 4 (3.5mm) round needles
US size 4 (3.5mm) double pointed needles
Stitch markers (for separating sweater parts and marking raglan lines)
Tapestry needle
1.5 skein sport or worsted yarn yarn such as 24/7 Cotton
US size 4 (3.5mm) round needles
US size 4 (3.5mm) double pointed needles
Stitch markers (for separating sweater parts and marking raglan lines)
Tapestry needle
Finished size (measurements taken flat): chest 10.5in, shoulder to waist 10in, wrist band to wrist band 21.5in
Gauge: 21 stitches and 30 rows = 4” in stockinette stitch
Skill level: easy. Requires knitting in the round, yarn over
Abbreviations used:
k = knit
p = purl
m= place marker
sm= slip marker from one needle to the other
m= place marker
sm= slip marker from one needle to the other
k2tog = knit 2 together (used for decreasing 1 stitch, done from the front of the piece)
ssk= slip, slip, knit (used for decreasing 1 stitch, done from the back of the piece)
See the difference between k2tog and ssk here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSTQjOCyfhI
ssk= slip, slip, knit (used for decreasing 1 stitch, done from the back of the piece)
See the difference between k2tog and ssk here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JSTQjOCyfhI
Yoke: CO 70 stitches with any stretchy cast-on.
Rows 1-3: k
R4: In this row, you will make the button hole and divide the stitches into front panels, sleeves, and back: k1, k2tog, yo, k2, m, k9, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k7, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k24, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k7, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k9, m, k5. 78 stitches.
R6: k5, sm, k10, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k9, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k26, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k9, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k10, sm, k5. 86 stitches.
* You will continue increasing one stitch at each side of the raglan stitch (for a total of 8 stitches) in every even row. This will give you an increase of 1 stitch on the front panels and 2 stitches on the sleeves and back. You should have the following number of stitches at the end of each of the following rows:
R8: 94 R10: 102 R12: 110 R14: 118 R16: 126 R18: 134
R20: 142 R22: 150 R24: 158 R26: 166 R28: 174 R30: 182
Pro tip: if the raglan line isn't straight, you've made a mistake!
R4: In this row, you will make the button hole and divide the stitches into front panels, sleeves, and back: k1, k2tog, yo, k2, m, k9, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k7, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k24, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k7, yo, m, k1, m, yo, k9, m, k5. 78 stitches.
R6: k5, sm, k10, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k9, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k26, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k9, yo, sm, k1, sm, yo, k10, sm, k5. 86 stitches.
* You will continue increasing one stitch at each side of the raglan stitch (for a total of 8 stitches) in every even row. This will give you an increase of 1 stitch on the front panels and 2 stitches on the sleeves and back. You should have the following number of stitches at the end of each of the following rows:
R8: 94 R10: 102 R12: 110 R14: 118 R16: 126 R18: 134
R20: 142 R22: 150 R24: 158 R26: 166 R28: 174 R30: 182
Pro tip: if the raglan line isn't straight, you've made a mistake!
R32: In this row, you will separate the torso from the sleeves by putting the sleeve stitches on standby. You will also make the second buttonhole: k1, k2tog, yo, k2, sm, k24, put 35 stitches on hold, yo, k54, yo, put 35 stitches on hold, k24, sm, k5.
R 33 and all odd number rows: k5, p to last marker, k5
R 34: k5, sm, *k1, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat from * 7 times (you can place a marker after each panel to separate them), sm, k5
R 36: k5, sm, *k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat from * 7 times, sm, k5
R 38: k5, sm, *k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3*, repeat from * 7 times, sm, k5
R 40: k5, sm, *k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4*, repeat from * 7 times, sm, k5
R 42- 65: Repeat rows 34-41 three times.
R 66: k2tog, k to last two stitches, k2tog.
R 67: k
R 68-71 : repeat rows 66 and 67 three times.
R 73 : Bind-off.
Sleeves (Change to double pointed needles and knit in the round)
R 32: Transfer and distribute the sleeve stitches on double pointed needles. Beginning in the middle of the armpit, pick up two stitches, k to end of sleeve, pick up two stitches and continue knitting in the round (39 stitches)
R 33: *k1, yo, ssk, k7, k2tog, yo, k1*, repeat from * twice
R 34 and all even rows: k (You are knitting in the round so you do not need to purl)
R 36: *k2, yo, ssk, k5, k2tog, yo, k2*, repeat from * twice
R 38: *k3, yo, ssk, k3, k2tog, yo, k3*, repeat from * twice
R 40: *k4, yo, ssk, k1, k2tog, yo, k4*, repeat from * twice
R 66 (beginning of cuff): k2, p2 to last three stitches, k2tog, k1
R 67: k2, p2 to last three stitches, p2, p1
R 68- 75: k2, p2
R 76: k
R 77- 83: k2, p2
R 78: bind off.
Pretty pattern!!,well explained 👌...notes!!
ReplyDeleteThank you for sharing!!
Hi! Thank you so much! I'm just seeing your comment. <3
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